🗓️ January 26, 2021
Getting from the drawing to the actual space is a big first step. I have all of this worked out, modeled in 3d down to 1/8″ tolerance. I know this is going to work out fine, but getting a couple of walls framed in really helps put the space in perspective. It also helps my family, who is not so construction-minded, to start to better visualize the changes. I spent a half a day getting some “bones” built so we can start wrapping our heads around the new space. It will probably sit like this for a couple weeks while I do more demolition and get some plumbing and electrical lines moved, but it was a good kickoff to this project.
Moving the wall 16"
It’s a lot of extra work to move this over, but I’m doing it for a few reasons.
- With a coffered ceiling, it will look a lot better if the room is a true rectangle. Without this move, it’s more of a shallow “L” shape.
- This move gives plenty of counter space on each side of the new stove location (where the refrigerator is now)
- By moving this wall, and therefore the ceiling beams, over a bit, it will give the new kitchen island more room, and allow a wider walkway between the island and the main counter.
The Coffered Ceiling, Part 1
Much like bumping out the wall, the coffered ceiling will be a lot of work. Here’s the reasoning:
- They look nice. This is only half of it. The drop-celing over the main part of the kitchen is being removed and the coffered ceiling will span the entire width of the room.
- We’re using beadboard on the ceiling, and coffering the beams gives us a way to eliminate the seams in the beadboard panels. All the beams are less than four feet apart, so there will be no seams.
- Because of a steel beam supporting the second floor, getting some electrical and plumbing lines across the room is tough. If the ceiling is coffered, I can run some of this stuff through the hollow beams.
- I hate finishing drywall, and if we cover the ceiling with wood, I don’t have to finish the drywall (this is the real win!)